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Spark calculated the climate impact of renting clothes for The Ateljé

Anna
June 20, 2022
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Renting clothes and especially outfits for special occasions has become a new trend and is generally considered to be a sustainable choice. The clothing rental service The Ateljé wanted to understand the climate impact of renting clothes compared to buying new and turned to Spark Sustainability for help. The results are definitely positive.

In the face of climate change and the loss of biodiversity, circular business models are growing increasingly popular. Rental services are examples of circular businesses that are often founded with the purpose of reducing the industry’s environmental impact. Yet these services have sometimes been accused of causing a higher environmental impact compared to traditional ownership scenarios.

Spark set out to find out how the climate impact of The Ateljé’s clothes rental services compares to that of traditional clothes ownership. As most of The Ateljé’s customers are looking for a fancy outfit for a special occasion with a formal dress code, such as a wedding, the garment chosen for the study was a dress. 

The idea behind clothes rental businesses is that renting would replace purchasing of clothes to a certain extent. In order to examine how long-term changes in purchase habits affect the results, a scenario of 4 years of using dresses for formal occasions was depicted. 

For example, if an individual rents a dress for half of all the special occasions during that 4-year period and purchases dresses for the rest, how does it compare to someone that purchases dresses for all occasions?

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User transport and use frequency of the dress affecting emissions the most 

Generally, emissions arise from garment production, distribution and retail, usage, and end-of-life. The focus in Spark’s report for The Ateljé is on the use phase – including user transport to and from the store or rental shop, as well as laundry, ironing or steaming of the dress. Emissions resulting from the remaining areas (production, distribution and retail, and end-of-life) were obtained from a study by Sandin et al. (2019). 

‍The factors having the biggest impact on the results in the use phase are the user transport method as well as the use frequency of the dress. Thus, the study contained twelve different sub-scenarios in order to examine how different transport methods and use frequencies affect the results.

These scenarios were included in the study

We examined two different main scenarios (so-called functional units):

  1. One use of a dress for formal occasions
  2. 4 years of using dresses for formal occasions

In addition to the main scenarios, there are a number of sub-scenarios to account for differences in:

  • how many times the garments are used,
  • how the user travels to the store or rental shop, and
  • how big share of dress purchases are replaced by rental (only for the 4 years of dress use main scenario)

Significantly less emissions from renting formal attire than from owning it

The results show that using more rental services is preferable in 11 out of 12 scenarios: in the scenario where the dress is used a lot and the user travels by car to purchase or rent the dress, ownership is more climate-friendly. 

Chart showing the global warming potential for 4 years of formal dress use with different scenarios for use of rental services.
Global warming potential for 4 years of formal dress use when rental services are used at different rates. Average use frequency and car transport is assumed for all these scenarios.

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As can be seen in the picture, the results indicate that the more purchases are replaced with rentals, the smaller the climate impact for 4 years of formal dress use. Though user transport emissions increase, emissions from production, distribution and retail, and end-of-life decrease. This is because the “fixed” emissions are shared with other rental users, and rental dresses are estimated to be used more often than purchased dresses. 

Rent formal wear and own wardrobe basics 

These results align with previous research on the topic. An interesting find when comparing different studies is that the type of garment rented seems to have a big impact on the results: from a climate perspective, it is more beneficial to rent formal wear and other garments that are usually not worn until their end-of-life, while wardrobe basics that are worn a lot, such as for instance jeans or T-shirts, can be purchased.

Key takeaways:

  • Using rental services rather than purchasing dresses is the most climate-friendly option in almost every scenario.
  • Purchasing a dress is only better if the dress has a high number of wears and the user drives a car to the rental location each time they rent a dress.
  • If the distance driven to the rental shop is large, that could turn the results around also for average or low usage scenarios
  • The extra laundry and care associated with rental services has a very small impact on the results. This is partly because the Finnish electricity mix is fairly clean. Additionally, the kind of delicate garments modelled in this study should not be tumble dried and are washed in low temperatures.
  • Wearing a dress more often can bring significant emission savings, since it means new dresses can be produced less frequently. This is particularly relevant for ownership scenarios where wear times are assumed to be low. 

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Want to know more? Shoot an email to hello@sparksustainability.com!

Sources

Sandin, G., et al., 2019

Environmental assessment of Swedish clothing consumption - six garments, sustainable futures

Tagged:
Reference cases
Consumption
Sustainable lifestyle
About author
Anna

Anna is an energy engineer with a passion for emission data visualisations and trail running.

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